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	<title>My Recycled Bags.com &#187; Yarn Projects</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.myrecycledbags.com/category/yarn-products/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.myrecycledbags.com</link>
	<description>Come Learn and Share Information about Recycling, Crocheting &#38; Green Crafting</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 04 Feb 2012 20:27:34 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<language>en</language>
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		<item>
		<title>Many Scalloped Boxes Dishcloth</title>
		<link>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2012/02/04/many-scalloped-boxes-dishcloth/</link>
		<comments>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2012/02/04/many-scalloped-boxes-dishcloth/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Feb 2012 16:39:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Cindy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Yarn Projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crochet]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dishcloth]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[free-pattern]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[open-mesh-dishcloth]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.myrecycledbags.com/?p=9233</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Here is my latest free crochet pattern. I call this dishcloth Many Scalloped Boxes. This dishcloth pattern is a variation of my <a href="http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2009/11/19/open-mesh-magic-dishcloth/" title="Open Mesh magic Dishcloth Pattern" target="_blank">open mesh magic dishcloth</a> pattern. It&#8217;s worked with a sport weight cotton yarn and features a scalloped edging.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7147/6533621741_09b925b89b.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Here is another one worked in regular weight cotton. If you like a more open-stitched lightweight dishcloth, you will enjoy using this crocheted dishcloth. It dries out quickly while still providing an excellent cleaning cloth. </p>
<p><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7141/6535607205_a848e92a7d.jpg"></a></p>
<p><strong>Many Scalloped Boxes Dishcloth Pattern</strong></p>
<p>Hook:<br />
“G” 4-4.25 mm Crochet Hook</p>
<p>Materials:<br />
1.25 ozs Cotton yarn<br />
1/4 oz of contrasting Cotton yarn if you want the edging in another color</p>
<p>Description:<br />
8 &#8211; 8 1/2 inch square dishcloth depending on yarn used</p>
<p>Directions:<br />
Row 1<br />
Ch 34, Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea st. (33) <span id="more-9233"></span></p>
<p>Row 2 (DC Row)<br />
Ch 2, turn. DC in 1st st, *Ch 1, Sk next st, DC in next st*<br />
Repeat between * to end. Work another DC in last st.<br />
(You will have two DC in last st)</p>
<p>Row 3 (SC Row)<br />
Ch 1, turn. Sk 1st DC, *Sc in next DC, Sc in Ch 1 sp, Sc in next DC*<br />
Repeat between * to last st of row. Sk last DC and Sc into the top of Ch 2.</p>
<p>Repeat Row 2 and 3 until have 11 rows of boxes. End with row 3. Leave yarn attached to begin edging if you are crocheting the edging in the same colored yarn. Otherwise finish off main color and use contrasting yarn for the edging row.</p>
<p>Option for using regular weight cotton yarn:<br />
Repeat Row 2 and 3 until you have 8 rows of boxes or desired length of dishcloth. End with row 3. I did one round of sc around the entire dishcloth before I added my trim on the dishcloth pictured above as I was using up scrap yarn pieces to finish the cloth.</p>
<p>FYI – Each DC should be lined up over the top of each other which creates the box effect.</p>
<p>Edging:<br />
Turn, *Ch 4, work Tr in sm st, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st*, repeat between * as you work along corners and edges evenly with the scalloped edging. FO.</p>
<p>If you have any questions or find discrepancies in this pattern, please email me using contact tab.</p>
<p>Abbreviations:<br />
Beg – Beginning<br />
Ch – Chain<br />
Dc – Double Crochet<br />
Ea – Each<br />
FO – Finish Off<br />
Sc – Single Crochet<br />
Sk – Skip<br />
Sl St – Slip Stitch<br />
Sm – Same<br />
St – Stitch<br />
Tr &#8211; Triple Crochet</p>
<p>This pattern is copyrighted by Cindy of My Recycled Bags {dot com} and may only be used for private individual use. No commercial sales or use of this pattern or photos are permitted. Links to this pattern are acceptable and appreciated. ©2011-2012</p>
<p>****Please do not copy my patterns on your blog site or post my patterns on Internet sites. I do not allow my patterns to be republished without expressed written permission. [&#8230;]</p>]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Pointed Handle Towel Topper</title>
		<link>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2012/01/15/pointed-handle-towel-topper/</link>
		<comments>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2012/01/15/pointed-handle-towel-topper/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Jan 2012 05:19:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Cindy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Yarn Projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crochet]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[double-layered-towel-topper]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[free-pattern]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[no-sew towel topper]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[towel topper]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.myrecycledbags.com/?p=9297</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Here is my latest towel topper crocheted pattern. It is a double layer towel that is folded over and requires no cutting or sewing. The towel topper is simply added by working a base row along the top edge of the towel using a small steel crochet hook. I have a <a href="http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2008/11/08/double-layer-towel-toppers/" title="No Sew Double Layer Towel Toppers" target="_blank">picture tutorial here</a> that shows in more detail how I fold, pin, and crochet the first base row through both layers of the folded towel.</p>
<p></p>
<p><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7145/6565525955_eda55e1071.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Here is another one I did using a printed novelty towel.<br />
<a href="http://farm8.static.flickr.com/7009/6522978463_152c6a67b2.jpg"></a> <a href="http://farm8.static.flickr.com/7029/6522978455_57aba877a3.jpg"></a></p>
<p>*******************************************************************************************************************************<br />
<strong>Pointed Handle Towel Topper Pattern</strong></p>
<p>Materials needed:<br />
1- Kitchen towel or decorative towel (15” wide x 24” long used)<br />
1- oz. Sport weight mercerized Cotton<br />
1- ¾” button</p>
<p>Hooks:<br />
#7 Steel hook<br />
G (4.25 mm)  hook</p>
<p>Directions:<br />
This towel topper uses the double layered fold and pin method. See my <a href="http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2008/11/08/double-layer-towel-toppers/" title="No Sew Double Layer Towel Topper Tutorial" target="_blank">picture tutorial</a> on how to prepare the top of towel to begin Sc stitching along top edge if you are not familiar with this no-sewing or cutting method. All crochet terms are US as shown in this pattern.</p>
<p>Row 1<br />
Fold the towel exactly in half and using the steel crochet hook to poke holes, Sc evenly along the top edge of towel. (You will be Sc’g through both layers of the towel along the top edge.) I had 60 Sc along the top of the edge but it will vary depending on your stitch placement and yarn weight used. Just try and have an even number of stitches along the top. Otherwise it doesn’t matter how many stitches you have along the top of the towel.</p>
<p>Row 2<br />
Using the G crochet hook, Ch 2, turn. Dc in each st. <span id="more-9297"></span></p>
<p>Row 3<br />
Ch 4, turn. Tr in every <strong>other </strong>st. </p>
<p>Row 4<br />
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each st. </p>
<p>Row 5<br />
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in every <strong>other </strong>st. </p>
<p>Row 6-7<br />
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each st.</p>
<p>Row 8<br />
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in every <strong>other </strong>st.</p>
<p>Row 9<br />
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each st.</p>
<p><strong>Handle Rows:</strong><br />
Ch 2, turn and Hdc in ea st. (10 sts – counting Ch 2 turning chain as a st) until you have a 6 inch long handle. (Tip: Adjust your st count as needed so you are working even on 10 sts. Sometimes I have to skip a st or work a decrease as needed to get my st count to 10 at this point depending on how many beginning sts I had to start the towel topper. Just adjust your sts are needed.)</p>
<p>Next Row:<br />
With W/S facing, Ch 2, turn and Hdc in each of the next 3 sts, Ch 2, Sk 2 sts, Hdc in the last 4 sts.</p>
<p>Next Row:<br />
Ch 1, Sc in next 4 sts, work 3 Hdc in Ch 2 space buttonhole, then Sc in last 4 sts.</p>
<p>Next Row:<br />
Ch 1, Sc in next 5 sts, work 3 Hdc in the center st at buttonhole center st, then Sc in each of the remaining [&#8230;]</p>]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Men&#8217;s Crocheted Fingerless Gloves</title>
		<link>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2012/01/02/mens-crocheted-fingerless-gloves/</link>
		<comments>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2012/01/02/mens-crocheted-fingerless-gloves/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 02 Jan 2012 16:41:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Cindy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Yarn Projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crochet]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[free-pattern]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[men's fingerless-gloves]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Men's wrist-warmers]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.myrecycledbags.com/?p=9199</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Now that Christmas is over, I can share my men&#8217;s fingerless gloves. I crocheted these for my dh out of wool. He saw my <a href="http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/10/27/basic-fingerless-gloves/" title="Women's Fingerless Gloves" target="_blank">fingerless gloves</a> and said he would like a pair so I whipped these up for him. I used one Patons Classic Wool skeins of yarn in the natural mix color. This yarn is a medium weight or ww yarn. Because of this, you can use my free pattern with any type of medium weight yarn for these gloves. You can be creative and use reclaimed yarn or even acrylic yarn if you&#8217;d like to crochet these fingerless gloves.</p>
<p>Here is a shot of the gloves being modeled. And another taken laying flat. Click on any of the photos to super size them.<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7152/6577844491_c867510825.jpg"></a><br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7159/6496667833_b3cca8004c.jpg"></a></p>
<p><strong>Men&#8217;s Fingerless Glove Crochet Pattern<br />
</strong><br />
Yarn:<br />
Patons Classic Wool &#8211; natural mix color. 210 yards or 192 m</p>
<p>Hooks:<br />
<strong>F </strong>(3.75 mm) size crochet hook<br />
<strong>G</strong>  (4.25 mm) size crochet hook</p>
<p>Description:<br />
Men&#8217;s Large/XL sized fingerless gloves<br />
Measurements: 9-1/2” long, 3-3/4” wide at cuff &#038; 4-1/4” across at palm.</p>
<p>Directions<br />
Make 2 gloves as follows:<br />
Using <strong>F</strong> hook for ribbing, leave a long tail and ch 15.</p>
<p>Row 1 (Cuff Ribbing)<br />
Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea st down to the end. (14 Sc) <span id="more-9199"></span></p>
<p>Row 2-34<br />
Ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, Sc in ea st across.</p>
<p>The length of the ribbing cuff is nearly 4&#8243;. Adjust this should you need a smaller cuff by working a few less rows for a tighter cuff. </p>
<p>Leave yarn attached and just slip hook out of last st so you can weave closed the cuff.<br />
Using the long tail from the beginning row, weave closed the cuff by joining row 1 to row 34.</p>
<p><strong>Tip</strong>: I found it looks best if I work in the BLO of row 34 and both loops of the row 1 when I stitch the cuff closed. This keeps the appearance of the back loop raised stitching look for the cuff.</p>
<p>Rnd 1<br />
Slip the F hook back into last st of row 34. Now working into both loops, Sc evenly along end sts of cuff. (Approx. 35 Sc) Don’t join at end of round but just continue working in the round without joining or turning as you work the body of the glove.</p>
<p>Rnd 2-16<br />
Using <strong>G</strong> hook now, Sc in ea st of rnd.</p>
<p>Rnd 17 ( Thumb opening)<br />
Ch 10, sk 6 sts, and Sc in ea st around back to the chain for the thumb.</p>
<p>Rnd 18-33<br />
Sc around the chain for the thumb evenly (approx 10 sts) and Sc in ea remaining st of rnd.</p>
<p>Sc in ea st. On final rnd, end with Sc in ea st until the last 3 sts. Work Sl St in the last 3 sts and use tail to weave under to end with a smooth edge.</p>
<p>Tip: I worked the last several rounds very tightly so the finger opening was snugger on the gloves. Another suggestion [&#8230;]</p>]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>4</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>More Crocheted Towel Toppers</title>
		<link>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/12/14/more-crocheted-towel-toppers/</link>
		<comments>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/12/14/more-crocheted-towel-toppers/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 14 Dec 2011 19:54:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Cindy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Yarn Projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Christmas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crochet]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[no-cutting-towel-topper]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[towel topper]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[towel-toppers]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.myrecycledbags.com/?p=9206</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>I have been on a crocheted towel topper kick lately. I have crocheted several different ones including <a href="http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/12/06/triangle-ring-towel-topper/" title="Triangle Ring Towel Topper" target="_blank">ones with rings</a> and those with button closures. I love doing the no-cutting and no-sewing toppers with double layered towels as they are so nice and thick.<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7012/6508592669_6fcee3ef5e_b.jpg"></a></p>
<p></p>
<p>Here is the free crochet pattern and picture tutorial for making <a href="http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2008/11/08/double-layer-towel-toppers/" title="Double Layered Towel Topper Tutorial" target="_blank">double layered towel toppers</a>. The method I use is to just fold the towel in half and using a small steel crochet hook, single crochet the base row through both layers along the top of the towel edge. Once this base row is complete, you switch over to a larger hook and the towel topper works up quickly using only about an ounce of yarn.</p>
<p>I added a jingle bell for the button closure on this towel. Just chain 2-3 stitches for a larger button opening than the original pattern calls for when you crochet the buttonhole.</p>
<p>So if you need a last minute gift idea, grab a towel and some yarn and crochet one of these pretty towel toppers. They really are a wonderful handcrafted gift. [&#8230;]</p>]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>2</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Triangle Ring Towel Topper</title>
		<link>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/12/06/triangle-ring-towel-topper/</link>
		<comments>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/12/06/triangle-ring-towel-topper/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Dec 2011 04:33:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Cindy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Yarn Projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Christmas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crochet]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[free-pattern]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ring-towel-topper]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[towel topper]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.myrecycledbags.com/?p=9161</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>My triangle towel topper uses a finger towel and a recycled plastic milk jug ring for a hanger. I really like the idea of the round ring as you can hang up the towel on a cabinet knob or hang it up over a hook. It works up very quickly and I made the first one using less than an ounce of thrift store sport cotton. This one had 48 stitches along the top as the yarn was thinner. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Here is a closeup of the finished top. You can click on the photo to supersize it.<br />
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7167/6457472371_36fefcaf98_b.jpg"></a></p>
<p>When I made the red triangle towel topper, I used regular cotton weight yarn. It&#8217;s Bernat Christmas Sparkle. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Because the red triangle towel topper is a thicker weight yarn, it has 44 stitches across the top edge of the towel to start. But don&#8217;t worry about the number of stitches across the top, just do your single crochet stitches evenly along the top edge. You can always adjust your stitches as needed as you work your topper. I did one extra row for the flap on the red topper. With 4 rows, the turning flap was a bit longer but you can do just 3 rows if that works for you like I did with the sport weight yarn on the blue triangle towel topper. </p>
<p><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7158/6463740377_b09c04fdfb.jpg"></a></p>
<p>I used Christmas finger towels for this project but you can use towels of different widths or lengths. Just adjust your stitches as needed to end with a 4-stitch wide flap for the fold over the plastic ring. I used plastic milk jug rings but you can also use recycled juice or other round rings for this project. Make sure you crochet lots of stitches around the plastic ring to cover it entirely with the yarn. I found this gives the project a nice look and no one with ever know that you used an old plastic jug ring for your crochet project. </p>
<p>As always please enjoy the free pattern below and happy crocheting to all!</p>
<p><strong><br />
Crocheted Triangle Ring Towel Topper</strong></p>
<p>Materials needed:<br />
Finger towel – 10” wide by 16” long used<br />
Plastic milk jug ring 1-1/2&#8243; wide<br />
1 oz. Cotton yarn </p>
<p>Finished topper: 10&#8243; wide &#038; 5&#8243; long from top of ring to towel top edge</p>
<p>Hooks:<br />
#7 Steel crochet hook<br />
“G” (4.25 mm) crochet hook</p>
<p>Directions:<br />
Because finger towels are shorter, there is no cutting or sewing necessary to begin your base row. You will use the steel hook to poke the first hole into the right side corner and pull the yarn through the hole. Then use the G hook to complete your first Sc st. Then move onto the next hole until you have worked completely across the base row evenly with your stitching. Once you have the base row done, you will only be crocheting with the G hook.  </p>
<p>Row 1<br />
Using the steel crochet hook as explained above to poke holes, Sc evenly along the top edge of towel. <span id="more-9161"></span></p>
<p>Row 2<br />
Using the [&#8230;]</p>]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>5</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Basic Fingerless Gloves</title>
		<link>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/10/27/basic-fingerless-gloves/</link>
		<comments>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/10/27/basic-fingerless-gloves/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 27 Oct 2011 15:11:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Cindy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Yarn Projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crochet]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fingerless-gloves]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[free-pattern]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gloves]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.myrecycledbags.com/?p=8917</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6167/6224611621_60700054f0.jpg"></a>As many of you know, I&#8217;m really into creating basic patterns that are easy to make. With that in mind, I set out to create some crocheted fingerless gloves. I love to work in the round, without joining or seams if possible. So here is my basic and very simple crocheted fingerless glove project. </p>
<p>After making this basic crocheted pair of fingerless gloves, I decided that I would try adding a bit of a thumb to it. Below is the pair of gloves that I crocheted with the optional thumb.</p>
<p></p>
<p>The second pair of gloves were crocheted just a bit smaller by only doing 40 rows of ribbing and 40 stitches along the edge for the body of the glove. This resulted in a 1/4 inch smaller cuff and finger opening area. I mention this as a way to show that this pattern can be adjusted for smaller hands by just reducing the number of stitches on the ribbing. Likewise, you could make larger gloves by just increasing the number of stitches of the ribbing when you begin the pattern.</p>
<p>Each pair of gloves use just one skein of yarn and do work up very quickly. As always, I hope you enjoy my free pattern and happy crocheting to all!</p>
<p>***************************************************************************************************************************************<br />
<strong><br />
Basic Fingerless Glove Crochet Pattern</strong></p>
<p>Yarn:<br />
Red Heart – Heart &#038; Sole Yarn, Super Fine, Toasted Almond, 1.76 oz (50 g)</p>
<p>Hooks:<br />
“F” (3.75 mm) size crochet hook<br />
“G” (4.25 mm) size crochet hook</p>
<p>Description:<br />
Women’s Medium sized fingerless gloves<br />
Measurements: 8-3/4” long, 3-1/2” wide at cuff &#038; 4” across at palm.</p>
<p>Directions<br />
Make 2 gloves as follows:<br />
Using F hook for ribbing, leave a long tail and ch 15.</p>
<p>Row 1<br />
Sc in 3rd ch from hook and in ea st down to the end. (13 Sc)<span id="more-8917"></span></p>
<p>Row 2-42<br />
Ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, Sc in ea st across.<br />
Length is approx. 6-1/4” long. </p>
<p>Leave yarn attached and just slip hook out of last st so you can weave closed the cuff.<br />
Using the long tail from the beginning row, weave closed the cuff by joining row 1 to row 42.</p>
<p>Rnd 1<br />
Slip the F hook back into last st of row 42. Now working into both loops, Sc evenly along end sts of cuff. (Approx. 41 Sc)  Don’t join at end of round but just continue working in the round without joining or turning as you work the body of the glove.</p>
<p>Rnd 2-24<br />
Using G hook now, Sc in ea st of rnd. </p>
<p>Rnd 25 ( Thumb opening)<br />
Ch 10, sk 8 sts, and Sc in ea st around back to the chain for the thumb.</p>
<p>Rnd 26<br />
Sc around the chain for the thumb evenly (approx 12 sts) and Sc in ea remaining st of rnd.</p>
<p>Rnd 27-42<br />
Sc in ea st.  On final rnd, end with Sc in ea st until the last 3 sts. Work Sl St in the last 3 sts and use tail to weave under to end with [&#8230;]</p>]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>10</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Doll Bunting Pattern</title>
		<link>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/10/07/doll-bunting-pattern/</link>
		<comments>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/10/07/doll-bunting-pattern/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Oct 2011 13:35:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Cindy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Doll Clothes & More]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Yarn Projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[12" doll bunting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[13" doll bunting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crochet]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[doll-bunting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[free-pattern]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.myrecycledbags.com/?p=8807</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6009/5984631378_cb1427e3f0_b.jpg"></a><br />
This doll bunting pattern was adapted and printed with permission from Sue Thomson who designed a baby bunting for a newborn. Her free crochet pattern can be found <a href="http://www.miracleshappen.us/patterns/CrochetBunting/" title="Newborn Baby Bunting" target="_blank">here</a>. After re-working the pattern several times, I finally got the right fit for a baby doll that is about 13 inches tall. </p>
<p><br />
I crocheted the doll bunting and added a <a href="http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/09/10/doll-stocking-cap/" title="Doll Stocking Cap Pattern">stocking cap</a> to finish off the outfit. The hat is more of a sleeping cap for this outfit but the crochet pattern can be used for any doll that has a 10-1/2” head circumference.</p>
<p>Enjoy the free doll bunting pattern below and happy crafting to all!</p>
<p>******************************************************************************************************************************<br />
<strong>Baby Doll Bunting Pattern</strong></p>
<p>Fits a 12-13” Baby Doll<br />
Bunting measures:  5” wide between armholes, 6” sleeve openings,<br />
 10” around at neck  and 14” long</p>
<p>Hook: Metal “G” (4.25 mm) US sized crochet hook</p>
<p>Materials:<br />
2.75 oz – worst weight yarn (Purple Puff used)<br />
Small amount of white yarn for trim<br />
One &#8211; ¼” Button for back closure</p>
<p>Directions:<br />
Ch 34<br />
Row 1<br />
Dc in 3rd ch from hook. Dc in next 5 sts, (Dc, ch 1, Dc) in next st; Dc in next 6 st, (Dc, ch 1, Dc) in next st; Dc in next 6 st, (Dc, ch 1, Dc) in next st; Dc in next 6 sts, (Dc, ch 1, Dc) in next st and Dc in last 5 sts.  Ch 2, turn. <span id="more-8807"></span></p>
<p>Rows 2-4<br />
*Dc in each st until you come to the ch 1 space, then (Dc, ch 1, Dc) in ch 1 sp. Repeat from * 3 times. Dc in remaining sts.  Ch 2, turn. </p>
<p>Row 5 (Sleeves formed)<br />
*Dc in ea st until you come to the ch 1 sp, Dc in ch 1 sp, sk sts until the next ch 1 sp,* Repeat between *  then Dc in ea remaining st of row.  Ch 2, turn</p>
<p>Row 6-7<br />
Dc in ea st to underneath the armhole, work 2 Dc in st under armhole to provide extra room for sleeve ease. Dc in ea st around to other armhole and work 2 Dc under that armhole to match the other side and then Dc in ea remaining sts. Ch 2, turn.</p>
<p>Row 8<br />
Dc in each st and work 2 Dc in st below each armhole on each side for sleeve ease. Dc in ea remaining st of row.  Join with Sl St into beginning Dc st. Don’t turn as you will be working in the round from this point on.</p>
<p>Row 9-23<br />
Ch 2, Dc in sm st and in ea st around. Join with a Sl St into the top of the Ch2 st at beginning.</p>
<p>Continue working in rounds until total of 23 row/rounds completed or the desired length of bunting is reached. FO.</p>
<p><strong>Trim:</strong><br />
Neck:<br />
Using white yarn with RS facing, attach yarn at neck at top right hand side (if you are looking at front), *Ch 3, Dc in sm st, sk next st, and Sl St in next st.* Repeat [&#8230;]</p>]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Doll Stocking Cap</title>
		<link>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/09/10/doll-stocking-cap/</link>
		<comments>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/09/10/doll-stocking-cap/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Sep 2011 03:20:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Cindy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Doll Clothes & More]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Yarn Projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[doll]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[doll-hat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[doll-sleeping-cap]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[stocking-cap]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.myrecycledbags.com/?p=8700</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6146/5996826826_12a5f1aaf8.jpg"></a>I designed this doll stocking cap as a sleeping cap for a baby doll. It fits a 12-13&#8243; doll with a head circumference of 10-1/2 inches around. I wanted to share this quick crochet project as it&#8217;s a fun little hat to add to a baby doll clothing set. I crocheted this hat to go along with the doll bunting outfit I made for my granddaughter&#8217;s doll.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6025/5996271113_46c07dd5f7.jpg"></a></p>
<p>*******************************************************************************************************************************************<br />
<strong><br />
Doll Stocking Cap Pattern</strong></p>
<p>Fits a 12-13” doll or any doll that has a 10-1/2” head circumference<br />
Hat measurement flat:  4-7/8” wide across opening and 10” long<br />
Hook: Metal “G” (4.25 mm) US sized crochet hook</p>
<p>Materials:<br />
1 to 1-1/2 oz – worst weight yarn (Vintage Purple Puff WW)<br />
Small amount of white yarn for ribbing band and tassel  </p>
<p>Directions:<br />
Using white yarn Ch 7.<br />
<span id="more-8700"></span><br />
Row 1 (Ribbing Band)<br />
Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea st across. (5)</p>
<p>Rows 2-31<br />
Ch 1, turn. Working in back loops only (BLO), Sc in ea st across to create ribbing.<br />
 <a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6010/5996824606_a457b832a2.jpg"></a><br />
Row 32 (Joining)<br />
Ch 1, turn. Working in front loops only (FLO) of row 31 and into your beginning chain, work Sc through into both rows to join into a ring. Ribbing is about 1 inch wide. FO white yarn.</p>
<p>Rnd 1-2<br />
Using purple yarn, attach with Sl St on edge of ribbing. Working along side edge of ribbing, Sc evenly into ea end st. Sc into beg Sl St and continue working in rounds without joining. (Approx 33 sts) </p>
<p>Use a stitch marker if needed so you know where each round begins.</p>
<p>Rnd 3-7<br />
Dc in ea st around. </p>
<p>Rnd 8<br />
*Dc in next 3 sts, work 1 dec Dc over the next 2 sts.*  Repeat between * around.</p>
<p>Rnd 9-10<br />
Dc in ea st around. </p>
<p>Rnd 11<br />
Work 1 Dc dec over next 2 sts, Dc in next 5 sts, and work 1 Dc over next 2 sts. Dc in ea remaining sts of rnd.</p>
<p>Rn 12<br />
Dc in ea st. around.</p>
<p>Rnd 13-14<br />
Work 1 Dc dec over next 2 sts, Dc in next 4 sts, and work 1 Dc dec over next 2 sts.  Dc in ea remaining sts of rnd.</p>
<p>Rnd 15<br />
Work 1 Dc dec over next 2 sts, Dc in the next 2 sts, and work 1 Dc dec over next 2 sts. Dc in ea remaining sts of rnd.</p>
<p>Rnd 16<br />
Dc in ea st. Leave long tail of yarn to close end. FO.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6138/5996270357_283a355069.jpg"></a><br />
<strong>Tassel:</strong><br />
Cut 5 strands of white yarn 6 inches long. Attach tassel to end of hat through end st. Trim tassel to make even.</p>
<p>If you have any questions or find discrepancies in this pattern, please email me using contact tab above.</p>
<p>Abbreviations:<br />
Ch &#8211; Chain<br />
Dc &#8211; Double Crochet<br />
Dec &#8211; Decrease<br />
Ea &#8211; Each<br />
FO &#8211; Finish Off<br />
Hdc &#8211; Half Double Crochet<br />
RS &#8211; Right Side<br />
Sc &#8211; Single Crochet<br />
Sl St &#8211; Slip Stitch<br />
St &#8211; Stitch</p>
<p>This pattern is copyrighted by Cindy of My Recycled [&#8230;]</p>]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Diagonal Potholder &amp; Dishcloth Set</title>
		<link>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/08/21/diagonal-potholder-dishcloth-set/</link>
		<comments>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/08/21/diagonal-potholder-dishcloth-set/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 22 Aug 2011 03:30:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Cindy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Yarn Projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crochet]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dishcloth]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hotpad]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[potholder]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.myrecycledbags.com/?p=8683</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6024/6010484374_2daf6e1ef2.jpg"></a></p>
<p>This week I am sharing my diagonal potholder and dishcloth set. I previously have attempted to crochet a diagonal potholder without much success. You probably have seen several different versions of this potholder pattern that you crochet on the diagonal. I have tried before to crochet one of these but it just didn&#8217;t turn out right. Well I decided after reading another crocheter&#8217;s blog about using the <a href="http://www.mielkesfarm.com/diagonal_hotpad.htm" title="Diagonal Potholder Pattern" target="_blank">double thick potholder pattern</a> with success that I would give the pattern a try.</p>
<p>My first attempt turned out okay but the potholder was way too small for my liking. So then using a H crochet hook, I chained 32 stitches to begin the pattern. The result is the potholder shown which is about 5-3/4&#8243; square. I like this size much better and the corners are pretty straight. If your diagonal potholder isn&#8217;t real square, just try pulling on the corners as this helps straighten out the corners. I added a dishcloth using my <a href="http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2009/11/19/open-mesh-magic-dishcloth/" title="Open Mesh Dishcloth" target="_blank">open mesh magic dishcloth pattern</a> to complete the matching set.</p>
<p>It&#8217;s been a busy week and I wanted to share some crocheting with you all. I will be back next week with a new pattern as I have been working on several new projects but just didn&#8217;t get any new patterns written and pictures taken yet. So until next time, happy crafting to all![&#8230;]</p>]]></description>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Log Cabin Potholder Pattern</title>
		<link>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/02/18/log-cabin-potholder-pattern/</link>
		<comments>http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/02/18/log-cabin-potholder-pattern/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 19 Feb 2011 04:07:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Cindy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Yarn Projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crochet]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crocheting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[free-pattern]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hotpad]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[log-cabin]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plastic-juice-rings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[potholder]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.myrecycledbags.com/?p=7783</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>For all those log cabin pattern lovers out there, here is my version of a log cabin potholder. This potholder or hotpad was crocheted using scraps of cotton yarn I had on hand. I have also been saving all my juice and milk jug rings for crafting projects. This plastic ring is a larger one that I recycled from an apple jug. Using these recycled rings saves you from having to purchase store bought rings for your potholder projects.</p>
<p></p>
<p><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/5442790775_198ea667a4_m.jpg"></a>The potholder or hotpad completes my set that includes the <a href="http://www.myrecycledbags.com/2011/01/30/log-cabin-scrap-dishcloth/">log cabin scrap dishcloth pattern</a> I posted last month. These items are an excellent way to use scraps of cotton that you may have been saving and not sure what could be done with the small bits. My pattern is written with specific colors listed but you can mix and match the colors depending on what you may have on hand. </p>
<p>As always, please enjoy the free crochet pattern below.</p>
<p><strong>Log Cabin Potholder Pattern</strong></p>
<p>Hook:<br />
H (5 mm) USA crochet hook</p>
<p>Materials:<br />
Cotton yarn scraps in 6 colors<br />
2 ozs contrasting Cotton yarn for trim and back of potholder<br />
1 plastic ring </p>
<p>Description:<br />
8” x 8-1/2” Cotton Potholder/Hotpad</p>
<p>Directions:<br />
Row 1<br />
With light blue yarn, Ch 12, Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea st. (11)<br />
<span id="more-7783"></span><br />
Row 2-6<br />
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in ea st down to end. FO.</p>
<p>Row 1<br />
Attached new color (light green) at lower right hand side of RS.<br />
Ch 2, Hdc in ea st along the right side of light blue colored yarn. (Approx. 10 sts.) </p>
<p>Row 2-6<br />
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in ea st down to end. FO.</p>
<p>Row 1<br />
Attached new color (blue) at right hand corner of RS.<br />
Ch 2, Hdc in ea st along the left side of green and the light blue colored yarn. (Approx. 20 sts.) </p>
<p>Row 2-5<br />
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in ea st down to end. FO.</p>
<p>Row 1<br />
Attached new color (creme) at upper right hand corner of RS at end of light blue. Ch 2, Hdc in ea st along the right side of light blue and the blue colored yarn. (Approx. 16 sts.) </p>
<p>Row 2-6<br />
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in ea st down to end. FO.</p>
<p>Row 1<br />
Attached new color (aqua blue) at right hand corner of RS at end of creme. Ch 2, Hdc in ea st along the right side of creme, and light blue and light green colored yarn. (Approx. 28 sts.) </p>
<p>Row 2-4<br />
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in ea st down to end. FO.</p>
<p>Row 1<br />
Attached new color (Dark Green) at right hand corner of RS at blue corner. Ch 2, Hdc in ea st along the right side of the blue and creme yarn. (Approx. 28 sts.) </p>
<p>Row 2-4<br />
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in ea st down to end. FO.</p>
<p><strong>Back Potholder Piece</strong><br />
I used just a solid color for the back of my log cabin potholder. Using the creme yarn, Ch 29. Hdc in the [&#8230;]</p>]]></description>
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