So whether you have a small doll like this one shown or a larger baby doll, you can use my free patterns to crochet your doll a cute baby bunting. Enjoy and happy crocheting!

Baby Doll Bunting Pattern

Fits a 6-7” Baby Doll
Bunting measures: 3-3/4” wide between armholes, 4-1/2” sleeve openings,
5-3/4” around at neck and 6-1/2” long
Hook: Metal “G” (4.25 mm) US sized crochet hook

Materials:
1.25 oz – worst weight yarn
Small amount of contrasting yarn for trim
Small button for back closure

Directions:
Ch 23
Row 1
Dc in 3rd ch from hook. Dc in next 2 sts, (Dc, ch 1, Dc) in next st; Dc in next 4 st, (Dc, ch 1, Dc) in next st; Dc in next 4 st, (Dc, ch 1, Dc) in next st; Dc in next 4 sts, (Dc, ch 1, Dc) in next st and Dc in last 3 sts. Ch 2, turn.

Rows 2-3
*Dc in each st until you come to the ch 1 space, then (Dc, ch 1, Dc) in ch 1 sp. Repeat from * 3 times. Dc in remaining sts. Ch 2, turn.

Row 4 (Sleeves formed)
*Dc in ea st until you come to the ch 1 sp, sk sts until the next ch-1 sp, Dc in the ch-1 sp* Repeat between * then Dc in ea remaining st of row. Ch 2, turn

Row 5
Dc in each st around. Join with Sl St into beginning Dc st. Don’t turn as you will be working in the round from this point on.

Row 6-12
Ch 2, Dc in sm st and in ea st around. Join with a Sl St into the top of the Ch-2 st at beginning.
Continue working in rounds until total of 12 row/rounds completed or the desired length of bunting is reached. FO.

Trim:
Neck:
Using white yarn with RS facing, attach yarn at neck at top right hand side (if you are looking at front), *Ch 3, Dc in sm st, sk next st, and Sl St in next st.* Repeat between * around to other side’s top neck edge. FO.

Bottom Edging:
Using white yarn with RS facing, attach yarn at back center bottom, *Ch 3, Dc in sm st, sk next st, and Sl St in next st.* Repeat between * around to beginning. Join with Sl St to bottom of the first Ch 3. FO.

Sleeve Edging:
Using white yarn with RS facing, attach yarn at underarm, *Ch 3, Dc in sm st, sk next st, and Sl St in next st.* Repeat between * around to beginning. Join with Sl St to bottom of the first Ch 3. FO and repeat for other sleeve edge.

Drawstring:
For drawstring tie, chain about 18” long. Sl St in […]

This laundry basket project has been a huge undertaking. It is the largest recycled plastic bag project that I have ever crocheted. It has well over 150 bags in the finished product. When I set out to crochet a laundry basket, I wanted a large enough bag that I could use for a clothes hamper as well as a carrying bag for transporting the laundry to and from a laundromat.

The basket has a round base and while it looks funneled-shaped at the top, its really round in it’s overall shape. The photo above has 6 large beach towels in the bag and as you can see it still has room for more. You can also roll down the top and handles when using it for a hamper so it stands up if the basket isn’t full.

Plarn Laundry Basket Pattern

Materials needed:
Approx. 150+ white plastic grocery bags for main bag and
20 grey plastic bags for stripe and trim

Hook: “N” (9 mm) U.S. size metal hook
Description: Plarn Laundry Basket Bag
Bag measured flat: 22” wide and 28” long with 14” strap and
22” tall standing with 17” wide bottom

Directions:
Rnd 1
Using a magic circle, Sc 6 times into circle with white plarn. Don’t join but work in rounds unless advised otherwise. Use a stitch marker to mark rounds.
Rnd 2
Work 2 Sc in ea st. (12)
Rnd 3
Work *1 Sc in next st, 2 Sc in next st*. Repeat between * around.
Rnd 4
Work *1 Sc in next 2 sts, 2 Sc in next st*. Repeat between * around.
Rnd 5
Work *1 Sc in next 3 sts, 2 Sc in next st*. Repeat between * around.
Rnd 6
Work *1 Sc in next 4 sts, 2 Sc in next st*. Repeat between * around.
Rnd 7
Work *1 Sc in next 5 sts, 2 Sc in next st*. Repeat between * around.
Rnd 8
Work *1 Sc in next 6 sts, 2 Sc in next st*. Repeat between * around.
Rnd 9
Work *1 Sc in next 7 sts, 2 Sc in next st*. Repeat between * around.
Rnd 10
Work *1 Sc in next 8 sts, 2 Sc in next st*. Repeat between * around.
Rnd 11
Work *1 Sc in next 9 sts, 2 Sc in next st*. Repeat between * around.
Rnd 12
Work *1 Sc in next 10 sts, 2 Sc in next st*. Repeat between * around.
Rnd 13
Work *1 Sc in next 11 sts, 2 Sc in next st*. Repeat between * around.
Rnd 14
Work *1 Sc in next 12 sts, 2 Sc in next st*. Repeat between * around.
Rnd 15[…]

Here is my latest open-stitched crocheted dishcloth pattern for those that like that style of a cloth. It reminds me of a picket fence and thus the name was given to this pattern. I added a crab stitch or reverse single crochet trim to finish off the dishcloth.

I hope you enjoy the free crochet pattern and happy crocheting to all!

Crocheted Picket Fence Dishcloth Pattern

Hook:
H (5 mm) USA crochet hook

Materials:
1-1/2 ozs of Cotton yarn (Green Twists used)
¼ oz contrasting Cotton yarn for trim (Sage Green used)

Description:
9” x 9” Cotton Dishcloth

Directions:
Row 1
Ch 32, Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea st. (31)

Row 2 (TC Row)
Ch 3, turn. TC in 1st st, *Ch 1, Sk next st, TC in next st*
Repeat between * to end. Work another TC in last st.
(You will have two TC in last st)

Row 3 (SC Row)
Ch 1, turn. Sk 1st TC, *Sc in next TC, Sc in Ch 1 sp, Sc in next TC*
Repeat between * to last st of row. Sk last TC and Sc into the top of Ch 3.

Repeat Row 2 and 3 until have 7 rows of boxes. End with row 3. FO.

FYI – Each TC should be lined up over the top of each other which creates the picket fence effect.

Trim:
Using contrasting cotton yarn, attach yarn in any corner with RS facing. Work reverse single crochet or crab stitch evenly around edges. I worked 2 sts in the corners and along the sides that had the TC sts. FO.

If you have any questions or find discrepancies in this pattern, please email me using contact tab.

Abbreviations:
Ch – Chain
Dc – Double Crochet
Dec – Decrease
Ea – Each
FO – Finish Off
Sc – Single Crochet
Sk – Skip
Sl St – Slip Stitch
Sm – Same
St – Stitch
TC – Triple or Treble Crochet

This pattern is copyrighted by Cindy of My Recycled Bags {dot com} and may only be used for private individual use. No commercial sales or use of this pattern or photos are permitted. Links to this pattern are acceptable and appreciated. All crochet instructions are in US terms. © 2012

****Please do not copy my patterns on your blog site or post my patterns on Internet sites. I do not allow my patterns to be republished without expressed written permission. Posting of my patterns, without written permission is in violation of my copyrights and is content theft. […]

Here are the before pictures of my old potholders.

I crocheted a chain the length of the old potholder plus 3 stitches. Then single crochet (Sc) in the round until the shell is long enough to insert the old potholder inside.

Finished crocheted potholder cover for an old potholder. Click on any photos to supersize.

Insert the old potholder inside and then slip stitch the opening closed.

Here is the blue potholder shell and with a scalloped edging added. The scalloped edging is accomplished by working *Ch 3 in corner st, Dc in same st, skip 2 sts and Slip St in next stitch*. Repeat between * around to beginning Ch 3. Join and finish off.

These recycled potholders are extra thick and durable. Plus with the new crocheted covers, they look so much better and I was able to give my old potholders a new life. […]

Okay now for the details. I generally followed the written pattern but only chained on 190 stitches at the beginning so my scarf tails would be a bit shorter. I crocheted the scarf until it was 5-1/2 inches wide and finished with the wrong side facing. Turn and fold the scarf in half. Mark 40 stitches down from the top on each side. Attach your yarn with the right side facing at mark. Ch 1, single crochet (Sc) in same stitch, *Ch 1, skip 1 stitch, and Sc in next stitch*. Repeat between * in established stitch pattern until you meet the other mark for the other side of hood. Ch 1 at end of row and turn. I crocheted my hood until it measured 11 inches tall not including the scarf portion.

Here is a photo of the piece before it has the hood stitched close. Click on it to super-size it.

With right sides facing out, slip stitch to close the top of the hood. The seam is from the top of your head from the face back to the tip at the back of the hood.

Here is the back — Here is the front.

Working the hooded scarf pattern all in one piece makes it work up very quickly. The finished measurements are 5-1/2 wide scarf, hood is 11″ tall with total height of 16-1/2″ and 58″ long scarf. […]

I have had a recycled plastic bag or plarn laundry basket on my to-do list for a long time. I eventually get around to creating most of the things on my list but it does take time. Speaking of which, this recycled bag may end up being the largest one I have ever crocheted and it’s taking a lot of time.

Here is a picture I took of the base which is about 15 inches wide. It was done in single crochet stitch so it would be tighter and stronger for the bottom of the laundry basket. I am crocheting the sides in half-double crochet stitches.

I am continuing to crochet on this project and hope to have it finished soon. Once done, I will post the free crochet pattern and more pictures here at My Recycled Bags. […]

I used a H (5 mm) hook when I was crocheting the square as I didn’t have a G hook available. Once I finished the square I added a few more rows to make it big enough for a dishcloth. I used Sugar’n Cream Ecru cotton to do the last 3 rows. You will start in any stitch where you did a long Dc on the last green carrot top row.

Row 1: Sc into the long Dc of the prior row, then ch 4, skip over to the next long Dc and do a Sc in the stitch. Repeat around and in corners work Sc, ch 2, Sc. Join with slip stitch into 1st Sc.
Row 2: Ch 3, work 3 Dc in each ch-4 space, in corners work 2 Dc, ch 2, 2 Dc; work 3 Dc in each ch-4 space and repeat around. Join with slip stitch into top of ch 3 beginning.
Row 3: Sc around evenly by working a Sc in each space between stitches and work 2 Sc’s in the corner spaces. Repeat around and finish off. My finished dishcloth is about 9 inches square.

I used black thread and a sewing needle for the eyes. I just made the eyes by working long stitches several times to create each eye.

For the nose I used a small E (3.5 mm) crochet hook with a double-strand of pink fingering yarn to chain 2 stitches and joined to form a circle. Then work several Sc’s into the circle to create the nose and use the ends to attach to the face of the bunny and secure the ends on the backside of cloth. I also used the fingering yarn to make the bow tie by chaining with the small hook and attached to the bunny. I left the ends on the bow as shown and then wove them under and secured them tightly to the back so it would stay in place.

I just love how this dishcloth came out. I hope you enjoy crocheting the square as much as I did. Happy Easter Everyone![…]

I used a H (5 mm) hook and crocheted with double strands of off-white Caron yarn. I did 20 rows on the blanket before I began the decrease portion. I know many people have said the blanket pattern as written was small so I wanted to make mine bigger. My finished blanket is 17 inches wide by 18 inches long not including the bunny head.

I used black yarn to do the face. I worked on the face for quite some time and while I’m not completely happy with it, I’m finally calling it good. At least as good as I could get it.

One other important thing to note when working this pattern is that the hands are really hard to tie so make the ties a bit longer than the pattern calls for. Because if you are using double strands of worst weight yarn like I did, its really hard to get enough material to tie a knot.

Overall I enjoyed working this crochet pattern and found it easy to follow and the blanket even with the additional rows added, works up very quickly. So if you are looking for a Easter gift or a baby shower idea, you might want to check out this free crochet project.[…]

You probably have seen the double thick diagonal potholders before. You basically single crochet in the back loops only in the round until the ends begin to curl around and then the sides close in to each other if you continue. Here is an excellent crochet pattern and picture tutorial that shows the method.

Ch 14 for a 3 inch scrubbie. I used a J (6 mm) crochet hook and 2 and a half lettuce nets. Ch 19 for a 4 inch scrubbie and about 4 lettuce nets. I used Sugar and Cream in psychedelic cotton yarn to crochet both scrubbies and still had enough left to make this small matching dishcloth using my open mesh magic dishcloth pattern.

You assemble the lettuce nets by cutting them about 1 inch wide across to make loops. Here is my picture tutorial on assembling the netting loops so you can crochet with it along with the cotton yarn. You just hold the lettuce netting strand along with the cotton yarn as shown here to crochet the scrubbies. I turned my work to the outside once the edges reached each other which creates the seed stitch look to the scrubbers. Weave closed the seam by using the tail of your cotton yarn to finish off the scrubbie.

The result is some great recycled scrubbers that can be used on non-stick pans as well as for cleaning your sink, bath or other cleaning needs.[…]

Women’s Crocheted Socks

Yarn:
2) Patons – Stretch Sock Yarn 1.75 oz each – “Sugar”

Hooks:
F (3.75 mm) size crochet hook for ribbing only
G (4.25 mm) size crochet hook

Description:
Women’s shoe size 9-10 M socks

Directions
Make 2 socks as follows:
Using F hook for ribbing, leave a long tail and ch 11.

Row 1
Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea st down to the end. (10 Sc)

Row 2-37
Ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, Sc in ea st across.
Length is approx. 7-1/2” long. Check the fit of the sock cuff here. You want it snug so if needed, adjust your rows for the best fit.

Leave yarn attached and just slip hook out of last st so you can weave closed the ribbing.
Using the long tail from the beginning row, weave closed the ribbing cuff by joining row 1 to row 37. Ribbing cuff measures 3-3/4” flat and 1-1/2” across.

Rnd 1
Slip the F hook back into last st of row 37. Now working into both loops, Sc in same st and in ea st along end sts of cuff. (Approx. 40 Sc) Don’t join at end of round but just continue working in the round without joining or turning as you work the body of the sock.

Rnd 2-16
Using G hook now, Sc in ea st of rnd. (Approx length 3-3/4”.)

Rnd 17 (Heel opening)
Ch 20, sk 20 sts, and Sc in ea st around back to where heel starts.

Rnd 18-54
Sc in ea st of sock and in ea st of chain working in rounds until desired length is reached. For size woman’s size 9-10 this was 54 rounds.

Rnd 55-63(Toe)
Work 2 Sc tog (1 dec) on each side of sock for the last 9 rounds.
Leave long tail to st through last stitches and pull closed toe end. FO.

Rnd 1 (Heel)
Attach yarn at side corner of heel opening and Sc evenly around.

Rnd 2-12
Work 2 Sc tog (1 dec) on each side of V corner of heel opening. (2 Dec’s on rnd)
Tip: I found working the dec on the 1st st and then the 2nd dec on the next st after the V corner of the heel looked best.

I worked this pattern for 12 rounds and then worked 2 Sc tog around until there were 6 sts left and used the tail to close the heel.

Option for a women’s shoe size 6-1/2 – 7 socks

Follow the pattern above but begin toe decrease […]