Here is another one worked in regular weight cotton. If you like a more open-stitched lightweight dishcloth, you will enjoy using this crocheted dishcloth. It dries out quickly while still providing an excellent cleaning cloth.

Many Scalloped Boxes Dishcloth Pattern

Hook:
“G” 4-4.25 mm Crochet Hook

Materials:
1.25 ozs Cotton yarn
1/4 oz of contrasting Cotton yarn if you want the edging in another color

Description:
8 – 8 1/2 inch square dishcloth depending on yarn used

Directions:
Row 1
Ch 34, Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea st. (33)

Row 2 (DC Row)
Ch 2, turn. DC in 1st st, *Ch 1, Sk next st, DC in next st*
Repeat between * to end. Work another DC in last st.
(You will have two DC in last st)

Row 3 (SC Row)
Ch 1, turn. Sk 1st DC, *Sc in next DC, Sc in Ch 1 sp, Sc in next DC*
Repeat between * to last st of row. Sk last DC and Sc into the top of Ch 2.

Repeat Row 2 and 3 until have 11 rows of boxes. End with row 3. Leave yarn attached to begin edging if you are crocheting the edging in the same colored yarn. Otherwise finish off main color and use contrasting yarn for the edging row.

Option for using regular weight cotton yarn:
Repeat Row 2 and 3 until you have 8 rows of boxes or desired length of dishcloth. End with row 3. I did one round of sc around the entire dishcloth before I added my trim on the dishcloth pictured above as I was using up scrap yarn pieces to finish the cloth.

FYI – Each DC should be lined up over the top of each other which creates the box effect.

Edging:
Turn, *Ch 4, work Tr in sm st, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st*, repeat between * as you work along corners and edges evenly with the scalloped edging. FO.

If you have any questions or find discrepancies in this pattern, please email me using contact tab.

Abbreviations:
Beg – Beginning
Ch – Chain
Dc – Double Crochet
Ea – Each
FO – Finish Off
Sc – Single Crochet
Sk – Skip
Sl St – Slip Stitch
Sm – Same
St – Stitch
Tr – Triple Crochet

This pattern is copyrighted by Cindy of My Recycled Bags {dot com} and may only be used for private individual use. No commercial sales or use of this pattern or photos are permitted. Links to this pattern are acceptable and appreciated. ©2011-2012

****Please do not copy my patterns on your blog site or post my patterns on Internet sites. I do not allow my patterns to be republished without expressed written permission. […]

Closeup of the plastic sunflower

Recycled plastic bag tote with crocheted cotton sunflower

Here is sunflower I crocheted using just a bit of brown and yellow cotton yarn. So whether you are working with recycled plastic bags or regular yarn, you can crochet this cute sunflower to attach to a tote bag, purse or even use it as a hotpad.

Crocheted Sunflower Pattern

Description: 6-1/2″ wide crocheted Sunflower

Materials:
For recycled plastic sunflower: plastic bags cut into 1” plarn strips — 4 dark brown bags and 3 yellow bags
For yarn sunflower: 1/2 oz of brown and yellow cotton yarn

Hook: Metal H (5 mm) crochet hook

Round 1

With brown plarn or yarn, use magic circle or slip knot and Sc 6 times into circle. (6)
This project is worked in the round without joining unless otherwise advised to do so. Use stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round so you know where each round ends.

Round 2
Work 2 Sc in ea st around. (12)

Round 3
Work *Sc in next st and then 2 Sc in next st*. Repeat between * back to the beginning. (18)

Round 4
Work *Sc in next 2 sts and then 2 Sc in next st*. Repeat between * back to the beginning. (24)

Round 5
Work *Sc in next 3 sts and then 2 Sc in next st*. Repeat between * back to last st, work Sc in last st. (29)

Round 6
Sc in each st loosely and join with Sl St into beginning Sc. Weave in tail in next st to finish with a smooth edge for your brown center. Leave a length of the tail under the center so you can use it to attach to your tote bag later.

Petals
Row 1
The petal portion of this pattern varies if you are using plastic bag yarn (plarn) or regular cotton yarn. Please read carefully row 1 as you proceed. I have written the changes for regular cotton yarn steps after the plarn pattern instructions.

Join yellow plarn in the last st with a Sl St *Ch 6, in 2nd chain from hook Sc in next 5 sts of yellow chain, then Sl St into the brown beg st of row (same st here you began petal). Sl St in each of the next 4 sts along the brown edge*. Repeat between * back to the beginning and end with Sl St in the 2nd to last stitch and skip last st in brown so your spaces are even around 7 petals.

Row […]

Here is another one I did using a printed novelty towel.

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Pointed Handle Towel Topper Pattern

Materials needed:
1- Kitchen towel or decorative towel (15” wide x 24” long used)
1- oz. Sport weight mercerized Cotton
1- ¾” button

Hooks:
#7 Steel hook
G (4.25 mm) hook

Directions:
This towel topper uses the double layered fold and pin method. See my picture tutorial on how to prepare the top of towel to begin Sc stitching along top edge if you are not familiar with this no-sewing or cutting method. All crochet terms are US as shown in this pattern.

Row 1
Fold the towel exactly in half and using the steel crochet hook to poke holes, Sc evenly along the top edge of towel. (You will be Sc’g through both layers of the towel along the top edge.) I had 60 Sc along the top of the edge but it will vary depending on your stitch placement and yarn weight used. Just try and have an even number of stitches along the top. Otherwise it doesn’t matter how many stitches you have along the top of the towel.

Row 2
Using the G crochet hook, Ch 2, turn. Dc in each st.

Row 3
Ch 4, turn. Tr in every other st.

Row 4
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each st.

Row 5
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in every other st.

Row 6-7
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each st.

Row 8
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in every other st.

Row 9
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each st.

Handle Rows:
Ch 2, turn and Hdc in ea st. (10 sts – counting Ch 2 turning chain as a st) until you have a 6 inch long handle. (Tip: Adjust your st count as needed so you are working even on 10 sts. Sometimes I have to skip a st or work a decrease as needed to get my st count to 10 at this point depending on how many beginning sts I had to start the towel topper. Just adjust your sts are needed.)

Next Row:
With W/S facing, Ch 2, turn and Hdc in each of the next 3 sts, Ch 2, Sk 2 sts, Hdc in the last 4 sts.

Next Row:
Ch 1, Sc in next 4 sts, work 3 Hdc in Ch 2 space buttonhole, then Sc in last 4 sts.

Next Row:
Ch 1, Sc in next 5 sts, work 3 Hdc in the center st at buttonhole center st, then Sc in each of the remaining […]

Here is a shot of the gloves being modeled. And another taken laying flat. Click on any of the photos to super size them.

Men’s Fingerless Glove Crochet Pattern

Yarn:
Patons Classic Wool – natural mix color. 210 yards or 192 m

Hooks:
F (3.75 mm) size crochet hook
G (4.25 mm) size crochet hook

Description:
Men’s Large/XL sized fingerless gloves
Measurements: 9-1/2” long, 3-3/4” wide at cuff & 4-1/4” across at palm.

Directions
Make 2 gloves as follows:
Using F hook for ribbing, leave a long tail and ch 15.

Row 1 (Cuff Ribbing)
Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea st down to the end. (14 Sc)

Row 2-34
Ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, Sc in ea st across.

The length of the ribbing cuff is nearly 4″. Adjust this should you need a smaller cuff by working a few less rows for a tighter cuff.

Leave yarn attached and just slip hook out of last st so you can weave closed the cuff.
Using the long tail from the beginning row, weave closed the cuff by joining row 1 to row 34.

Tip: I found it looks best if I work in the BLO of row 34 and both loops of the row 1 when I stitch the cuff closed. This keeps the appearance of the back loop raised stitching look for the cuff.

Rnd 1
Slip the F hook back into last st of row 34. Now working into both loops, Sc evenly along end sts of cuff. (Approx. 35 Sc) Don’t join at end of round but just continue working in the round without joining or turning as you work the body of the glove.

Rnd 2-16
Using G hook now, Sc in ea st of rnd.

Rnd 17 ( Thumb opening)
Ch 10, sk 6 sts, and Sc in ea st around back to the chain for the thumb.

Rnd 18-33
Sc around the chain for the thumb evenly (approx 10 sts) and Sc in ea remaining st of rnd.

Sc in ea st. On final rnd, end with Sc in ea st until the last 3 sts. Work Sl St in the last 3 sts and use tail to weave under to end with a smooth edge.

Tip: I worked the last several rounds very tightly so the finger opening was snugger on the gloves. Another suggestion […]

Here is a closeup of the finished top. You can click on the photo to supersize it.

When I made the red triangle towel topper, I used regular cotton weight yarn. It’s Bernat Christmas Sparkle.

Because the red triangle towel topper is a thicker weight yarn, it has 44 stitches across the top edge of the towel to start. But don’t worry about the number of stitches across the top, just do your single crochet stitches evenly along the top edge. You can always adjust your stitches as needed as you work your topper. I did one extra row for the flap on the red topper. With 4 rows, the turning flap was a bit longer but you can do just 3 rows if that works for you like I did with the sport weight yarn on the blue triangle towel topper.

I used Christmas finger towels for this project but you can use towels of different widths or lengths. Just adjust your stitches as needed to end with a 4-stitch wide flap for the fold over the plastic ring. I used plastic milk jug rings but you can also use recycled juice or other round rings for this project. Make sure you crochet lots of stitches around the plastic ring to cover it entirely with the yarn. I found this gives the project a nice look and no one with ever know that you used an old plastic jug ring for your crochet project.

As always please enjoy the free pattern below and happy crocheting to all!

Crocheted Triangle Ring Towel Topper

Materials needed:
Finger towel – 10” wide by 16” long used
Plastic milk jug ring 1-1/2″ wide
1 oz. Cotton yarn

Finished topper: 10″ wide & 5″ long from top of ring to towel top edge

Hooks:
#7 Steel crochet hook
“G” (4.25 mm) crochet hook

Directions:
Because finger towels are shorter, there is no cutting or sewing necessary to begin your base row. You will use the steel hook to poke the first hole into the right side corner and pull the yarn through the hole. Then use the G hook to complete your first Sc st. Then move onto the next hole until you have worked completely across the base row evenly with your stitching. Once you have the base row done, you will only be crocheting with the G hook.

Row 1
Using the steel crochet hook as explained above to poke holes, Sc evenly along the top edge of towel.

Row 2
Using the […]

I wanted to add a gift bag type closure to the original pattern to create a reusable gift bag. I used some Christmas cotton to top this plarn bag and created a looped handle to finish off my little gift bag. The looped handle works wonderfully for closing the bag. I plan on crocheting several of these bags to use for gift bags for Christmas. They work up quickly and with the looped handle, you have a ready-made gift bag that doesn’t even require a bow.

Special thanks to Helen over at CrochetN’Crafts who was my inspiration for this project. So grab a few of those plastic bags laying around and whip yourself up a beautiful recycled gift bag for Christmas!

Cluster Stitch Plarn Gift Bag Pattern

Materials needed:
Plastic bag yarn “Plarn” – about 10 plastic grocery bags
1/2 oz Bernat Holidays Red Sparkle cotton yarn for trim and handle

Hooks:
“J” ( 6 mm) metal crochet hook for bag
“H” (5 mm) hook for top trim and handle

Description: Recycled Plastic Bag Cluster Stitch Gift Bag
Bag measures 6” wide and 4-3/4” tall with 12” handle and 5-1/4″ wide at base

Cluster Stitch Details:
Beg Cluster: Ch 2, (Yo, insert hook into sp indicated, yo and pull through, yo and pull through 2 lps on hook) 4 times, 5 lps on hook, yo and pull through all 5 lps, Ch 1.

Cluster: (Yo, insert hook into sp indicated, yo and pull through, yo and pull through 2 lps on hook) 5 times, 6 lps on hook, yo and pull through all 6 lps, Ch 1.

Directions:
Using J hook with plarn, Ch 11

Rnd 1
Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea chain st down to end. Work 3 Sc in end st, then continue around other side of chain by working a Sc in ea st to other end then work 2 Sc in end st. Join with a Sl St into beg Sc st. (24)
(Do not turn throughout project.)

Rnd 2
Ch 1, work 2 Sc in next two sts, Sc in next 8 sts, then work 2 Sc in ea of the next 4 sts, Sc in the next 8 sts. End with 2 Sc in the last two sts at end. Join with a Sl St into beg Sc st. (32)

Rnd 3
Ch 1, Sc in next st then work 2 Sc in next st, Sc in next 12 sts, and 2 Sc in the next st. Then Sc in next 2 sts, 2 Sc in next st, and Sc in the next 12 sts. End with 2 Sc in next […]

With Helen’s permission, I used her pattern for the basis of making this cute little bag project using recycled plastic bags. I then used some scrap yarn to make the top trim and handles to finish off this recycled bag project.

Here is a closeup photo of the handles that I crocheted onto the bag.
Click to supersize

This little plarn bag would make a great gift bag or purse. By adding a ribbon or bow to the bag, you create a re-usable gift bag that can be used over and over. The pattern works up very quickly and because of the pretty stitch pattern, I think it makes an adorable purse too.

Enjoy the free recycled crafting pattern below and happy crocheting to all!

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Cluster Stitch Plarn Bag Pattern

Materials needed:
Ball of plastic bag yarn “Plarn” – about 10-12 plastic grocery bags
Here is my picture tutorial on how to make plarn from plastic bags

1/2 oz worst weight yarn for handles

Hooks:
“J” ( 6 mm) metal crochet hook for bag
“H” (5 mm) hook for handles

Description: Recycled Plastic Bag Cluster Stitch Gift Bag or Purse
Bag measures 6” wide and 5” tall with 7” handles and 5-1/4″ wide at base

Cluster Stitch Details:
Beg Cluster: Ch 2, (Yo, insert hook into sp indicated, yo and pull through, yo and pull through 2 lps on hook) 4 times, 5 lps on hook, yo and pull through all 5 lps, Ch 1.

Cluster: (Yo, insert hook into sp indicated, yo and pull through, yo and pull through 2 lps on hook) 5 times, 6 lps on hook, yo and pull through all 6 lps, Ch 1.

Directions:
Using J hook, Ch 11

Rnd 1
Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea chain st down to end. Work 3 Sc in end st, then continue around other side of chain by working a Sc in ea st to other end then work 2 Sc in end st. Join with a Sl St into beg Sc st. (24)
(Do not turn throughout project.)

Rnd 2
Ch 1, work 2 Sc in next two sts, Sc in next 8 sts, then work 2 Sc in ea of the next 4 sts, Sc in the next 8 sts. End with 2 Sc in the last two sts at end. Join with a Sl St into beg Sc st. (32)

Rnd 3
Ch 1, Sc in next st then work 2 Sc in next st, Sc in next 12 sts, and 2 Sc in the next st. Then Sc in next 2 sts, 2 Sc in next st, and Sc in the next 12 sts. End with 2 Sc in […]

After making this basic crocheted pair of fingerless gloves, I decided that I would try adding a bit of a thumb to it. Below is the pair of gloves that I crocheted with the optional thumb.

The second pair of gloves were crocheted just a bit smaller by only doing 40 rows of ribbing and 40 stitches along the edge for the body of the glove. This resulted in a 1/4 inch smaller cuff and finger opening area. I mention this as a way to show that this pattern can be adjusted for smaller hands by just reducing the number of stitches on the ribbing. Likewise, you could make larger gloves by just increasing the number of stitches of the ribbing when you begin the pattern.

Each pair of gloves use just one skein of yarn and do work up very quickly. As always, I hope you enjoy my free pattern and happy crocheting to all!

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Basic Fingerless Glove Crochet Pattern

Yarn:
Red Heart – Heart & Sole Yarn, Super Fine, Toasted Almond, 1.76 oz (50 g)

Hooks:
“F” (3.75 mm) size crochet hook
“G” (4.25 mm) size crochet hook

Description:
Women’s Medium sized fingerless gloves
Measurements: 8-3/4” long, 3-1/2” wide at cuff & 4” across at palm.

Directions
Make 2 gloves as follows:
Using F hook for ribbing, leave a long tail and ch 15.

Row 1
Sc in 3rd ch from hook and in ea st down to the end. (13 Sc)

Row 2-42
Ch 1, turn. Working in BLO, Sc in ea st across.
Length is approx. 6-1/4” long.

Leave yarn attached and just slip hook out of last st so you can weave closed the cuff.
Using the long tail from the beginning row, weave closed the cuff by joining row 1 to row 42.

Rnd 1
Slip the F hook back into last st of row 42. Now working into both loops, Sc evenly along end sts of cuff. (Approx. 41 Sc) Don’t join at end of round but just continue working in the round without joining or turning as you work the body of the glove.

Rnd 2-24
Using G hook now, Sc in ea st of rnd.

Rnd 25 ( Thumb opening)
Ch 10, sk 8 sts, and Sc in ea st around back to the chain for the thumb.

Rnd 26
Sc around the chain for the thumb evenly (approx 12 sts) and Sc in ea remaining st of rnd.

Rnd 27-42
Sc in ea st. On final rnd, end with Sc in ea st until the last 3 sts. Work Sl St in the last 3 sts and use tail to weave under to end with […]

For this project, I wanted to create large comfortable handles that could be put over a child’s arms for easy carrying of this basket type bag. I recycled a microwave dinner tray and cut the top rim off. I then hole punched around the base evenly so I could crochet into the plastic tray for the base of this bag. The dinner tray provides a flat and sturdy bottom to the bag which allows the bag to stand up nicely on its own.

Enjoy crocheting this recycled bag project and happy Halloween everyone!

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Free Crocheted Pattern for a Recycled Plastic Trick or Treat Bag

Materials needed:
Orange plastic bags cut into 1” strips for plarn (approx 25 newspaper sacks used)

1) Plastic frozen dinner dinner tray with the rim cut off
(One used in project was 6-3/4” long & 3-1/2″ wide)

Hooks:
G (4.25 mm) sized metal hook for base row only
J (6 mm) sized metal hook

Description: Recycled Plastic Halloween Trick or Treat Bag

Bag measures 7” long, 5” wide and 6” tall with 8-1/2″ handles

Directions:
Using the tray after cutting off the rim, punch holes around the base as shown in the photo.
I used a heavy duty hole punch to put the holes around the base.

Rnd 1
With G hook, attach plarn with Sc into into first hole at one corner by drawing the plarn through the hole and then working a Sc loosely in each hole and over the top edge of the plastic base. End base round with a Sc into top of 1st Sc st.

Rnd 2-17
Using J hook now and for the remainder of the bag, Sc in ea st of base round. This bag is worked in rounds without turning or joining. Sc around in ea st until the last 5 sts of round 17. (End last round 5 sts from end to begin handle.)

Rnd 18
Ch 21, sk 16 sts, and Sc in the next 11 sts (approx) at center front (about 3″). Then ch 21, sk 16 sts, and Sc in the next 11 sts at the center of the other side of bag. Repeat to match the other side’s handle.

Check your handles to make sure they match and that the center front sts match each other. Adjust sts as needed so each side is even with each other.

Rnd 19
Sc around the entire chain evenly for the handle (approx 25 Sc), and Sc in ea st at center front. Repeat for the other handle and other side’s center.

Rnd 20-21
Sc in ea st of handle and in ea st at center front. Repeat for the other side. Finish off with a Sl St into the last 2 sts at […]

I crocheted the doll bunting and added a stocking cap to finish off the outfit. The hat is more of a sleeping cap for this outfit but the crochet pattern can be used for any doll that has a 10-1/2” head circumference.

Enjoy the free doll bunting pattern below and happy crafting to all!

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Baby Doll Bunting Pattern

Fits a 12-13” Baby Doll
Bunting measures: 5” wide between armholes, 6” sleeve openings,
10” around at neck and 14” long

Hook: Metal “G” (4.25 mm) US sized crochet hook

Materials:
2.75 oz – worst weight yarn (Purple Puff used)
Small amount of white yarn for trim
One – ¼” Button for back closure

Directions:
Ch 34
Row 1
Dc in 3rd ch from hook. Dc in next 5 sts, (Dc, ch 1, Dc) in next st; Dc in next 6 st, (Dc, ch 1, Dc) in next st; Dc in next 6 st, (Dc, ch 1, Dc) in next st; Dc in next 6 sts, (Dc, ch 1, Dc) in next st and Dc in last 5 sts. Ch 2, turn.

Rows 2-4
*Dc in each st until you come to the ch 1 space, then (Dc, ch 1, Dc) in ch 1 sp. Repeat from * 3 times. Dc in remaining sts. Ch 2, turn.

Row 5 (Sleeves formed)
*Dc in ea st until you come to the ch 1 sp, Dc in ch 1 sp, sk sts until the next ch 1 sp,* Repeat between * then Dc in ea remaining st of row. Ch 2, turn

Row 6-7
Dc in ea st to underneath the armhole, work 2 Dc in st under armhole to provide extra room for sleeve ease. Dc in ea st around to other armhole and work 2 Dc under that armhole to match the other side and then Dc in ea remaining sts. Ch 2, turn.

Row 8
Dc in each st and work 2 Dc in st below each armhole on each side for sleeve ease. Dc in ea remaining st of row. Join with Sl St into beginning Dc st. Don’t turn as you will be working in the round from this point on.

Row 9-23
Ch 2, Dc in sm st and in ea st around. Join with a Sl St into the top of the Ch2 st at beginning.

Continue working in rounds until total of 23 row/rounds completed or the desired length of bunting is reached. FO.

Trim:
Neck:
Using white yarn with RS facing, attach yarn at neck at top right hand side (if you are looking at front), *Ch 3, Dc in sm st, sk next st, and Sl St in next st.* Repeat […]